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karl-herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Illustrious Member
RE: Nozzles

Here some more information about different nozzle materials. Which one to choose depends on the application. I often print Carbonnylon and CarbonPEEK from 3dxtech and have had the best experience with the tungsten c.. At a price of 800 euros for a filament roll, the 50 dollars for a tungsten c. are no longer important to me. 0.4 and 0.6mm are used.
Of course you don't need a Ferarri to get from A to B, but in my case it was the best experience after testing everything (including olson ruby, x-nozzle, hardened steel, plated copper...).

 

 

Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.

Posted : 02/02/2021 7:55 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
RE: Nozzles

@karl-herbert

You print some amazing prints and filaments that many of us will never print.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 02/02/2021 8:08 pm
karl-herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Illustrious Member
RE: Nozzles

@cwbullet

That's right. I mainly print functional components for mechanical engineering and automotive. For other materials (PETG, ABS, PC, PLA...) I use the E3D and Tringlelabs brass nozzles with diameter 0.1 to 0.6mm. I would recommend these to most users.

Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.

Posted : 02/02/2021 9:22 pm
Thejiral
(@thejiral)
Noble Member
RE: Nozzles

The idea I had was that I could reduce the need for changing nozzels as I am not a fan of doing so, and if Tungsten could be used with brass settings that would be a plus, especially for multicolour MMU prints, where being forced to raise the nozzler temperature can cause you trouble.

But at the curent price tag and the scarcity on the market I suppose I'd rather go for something else.

I thought the ruby was also rather comparable in thermal conductivity to a brass nozzle but above graph would suggest the complete opposite. Is it that this is merely the ruby tip and does not consider the overall nozzle composition? Or is the markting drill just wrong?

PS: So far I have only used E3D brass nozzles and for abrasive materials Nozzle X but in the odd 0.35 mm diameter which is certainly pushing it for steel infill etc (but works in general).

Mk3s MMU2s, Voron 0.1, Voron 2.4

Posted : 02/02/2021 10:08 pm
Dragon1291
(@dragon1291)
Trusted Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Nozzles

Anyone try their luck with these nozzles: https://www.banggood.com/BIGTREETECH-Budaschnozzle1_1-Brass-Nozzle-Airbrush-1_75MM-0_2-or-0_3-or-0_4-or-0_5MM-Size-for-Ender-3-CR-10-V6-j-head-Hotend-3D-Printer-Parts-p-1749297.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=512928&rmmds=search

Looks like the "tip" extends waaay past stock but is an interesting way to address nozzle wear without severely affecting thermal conductivity.  

Posted : 02/02/2021 11:37 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
RE: Nozzles

@dragon1291

I have used them.  They work ok.  I prefer either Mellow, e3D, or Phaetus.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 03/02/2021 1:06 am
jsw
 jsw
(@jsw)
Famed Member
RE: Nozzles

I can confirm that there is little if any difference between the stock brass nozzle and the tungsten-carbide nozzle as far as print performance goes.

(To be honest, I don't remember the name of the supplier and the little envelope is long gone, it was one of the well-known Stateside firms.)

I did to a from-scratch complete XYZ calibration after the nozzle change and the 3x3 test print went flawlessly.

Posted : 03/02/2021 3:29 am
Jerry liked
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