[Solved] MK4 Wishlist  

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gz1
 gz1
(@gz1)
Estimable Member


I find I often am looking for a simple shape for a quick fix like a shim or washer. It would be useful to me if I didn't have to draw, slice, and transfer such things to the machine before printing. Could we have a submenu that you can go to to print simple shapes directly at the machine like you do on CNC mills. Rectangular shims are easy enough with G1 commands and washers with G2/G3 so wouldn't need a full slicer to allow the user to enter dimensions and print.

Yes!!! AWESOME IDEA!

And could you also make the firmware understand all the differences and properties for such simple parts for all the different filaments? I like to print these things out of ABS, PETG, PLA, and TPU (85 and 98). I'd also like to be able to specify the number of facets on both the inner and outer surface (say if I want a round inner hole in a square outer washer), and adjust layer properties like infill (for small parts I just want rectilinear infill, even on the outer layers, and other times I want concentric infill). Also, to counter the first-layer squish deformation, add an automatic chamfer at the bottom of the part. And then if I print multiples, I usually want to control the placement and ordering of the objects so that the travel is minimized.

This is probably too much to really do with the jog dial, so I think the printer should just go ahead and read my mind and do what I want.

#awesome

...
Posted : 05/02/2019 1:08 am
david.f43
(@david-f43)
Active Member

Maybe some way RFID, bacoede, etc to determine which build plate is loaded so we can have a unique z offset for each plate in a multiple plate scenario. This would allow for easy swapping of different build plate coverings to accommodate different filaments.

Another thought would be to move away from the aluminum plate approach on Z and go with something similar to the Haribo 3030 extrusion style approach.

Considering all of the complaints about the Filament sensor not working with certain filaments maybe reworking it to use a rotating bearing as some have done or maybe adapting it to use the FINDA probe from the MMU instead of the laser sensor. I’d really like a Filament sensor I can rely on regardless of the Filament type/color.

Posted : 08/02/2019 4:50 pm
rene.s13
(@rene-s13)
Eminent Member

RFID, bacoede, etc to determine which build plate is loaded so we can have a unique z offset for each plate

Awesome idea

Posted : 09/02/2019 10:39 pm
nikolai.r
(@nikolai-r)
Noble Member

RFID on a full magnetic bed should be difficult but a visual barcode with a barcode scanner should work.

Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram...
Posted : 09/02/2019 10:46 pm
randolph.l
(@randolph-l)
Honorable Member


RFID on a full magnetic bed should be difficult but a visual barcode with a barcode scanner should work.

good idea every smartphone is a scanner for bunch of different scannable symbols

Posted : 10/02/2019 12:56 am
joseph.p27
(@joseph-p27)
Active Member

Someone received an MK3S unit and posted photos on reddit.

Posted : 12/02/2019 12:25 am
pepeu
(@pepeu)
Active Member

Am I the only one who wants the knob turning to work in the opposite way? I'm guessing it's like the Mac/PC mouse scroll thingie.

Posted : 12/02/2019 9:07 pm
pepeu
(@pepeu)
Active Member

I don't need a touch screen, but rather a graphic color display and maybe an additional button. Maybe even a navpad kind of thing. It's annoying when you're deep in and want to go back to the main screen. Scroll, click, scroll, click, scroll, click. The UX surely could improve regarding the menu.

Posted : 12/02/2019 9:11 pm
pepeu
(@pepeu)
Active Member


Maybe some way RFID, bacoede, etc to determine which build plate is loaded so we can have a unique z offset for each plate in a multiple plate scenario. This would allow for easy swapping of different build plate coverings to accommodate different filaments.

Another thought would be to move away from the aluminum plate approach on Z and go with something similar to the Haribo 3030 extrusion style approach.

Considering all of the complaints about the Filament sensor not working with certain filaments maybe reworking it to use a rotating bearing as some have done or maybe adapting it to use the FINDA probe from the MMU instead of the laser sensor. I’d really like a Filament sensor I can rely on regardless of the Filament type/color.

I would be ok with just a simple option between several setups. Plus, maybe a navpad to help the navigation in general to be more clear, quicker and easier to use.

Posted : 13/02/2019 12:28 am
rene.s13
(@rene-s13)
Eminent Member

Less vibrations and noise
- "StealthChop 2" Drivers -> TMC5160
- Rubber stepper-motor-dampeners for X and Y axis

Isolated heatbed with temperature sensor soldered to it (instead of the cable with sensor)

Bigger buildplate

Z-calibration only where the print will end up. For small prints one z-calibration measurement could be enough

Posted : 15/02/2019 2:40 pm
michael.c110
(@michael-c110)
Eminent Member

what i would like to see is a bl-touch and the reset button moved so when the tab on the knob is pointing down it will not block the button

Posted : 15/02/2019 7:27 pm
corey.m7
(@corey-m7)
Eminent Member

I'm new here (haven't even assembled my Mk3S yet, yikes) but based on my experiences with 3D printing on another printer and the technology in general: What is really needed is a gradual refinement of the technology.

For a kit printer like the i3, opportunities for misalignment/bad tensioning should be eliminated (IE: Replace the U bolts with proper bearing mounts). Measures should also be taken to increase speed (Reduce the mass of the extruder/printhead assembly) without reducing quality. Vibration and slop in the mechanical design should be tightened up where possible, though it seems like that situation is fairly well sorted in the quality printers these days. Steppers should really be enhanced with encoders (or alternatively replaced with servos) such that the printer can keep better track of position (though the fancy trinamic drivers certainly seem to go a long way toward minimizing the inherent unreliability of stepper positioning). Further refinements to the printbed and adhesion (ideally, the printbead should last the life of the printer with responsible usage, and fiddling with gluestick/sprays/etc to ensure adhesion but not *too much* adhesion should be reduced to a minimum. Basically, refinements for quality of life and print quality (and saving us from ourselves w.r.t. bearings and such)

I, for one, think the print volume is perfectly workable as it is. We'll always run into the weird random occasion when we have something huge to print/build, but those situations are pretty rare. The relative expense increase to support a bigger bed probably isn't justified I think.

Posted : 16/02/2019 12:17 am
nikolai.r
(@nikolai-r)
Noble Member

Everybody want to have bigger and better stuff.
Let's go the other way around. I would like to see a lower level entry Prusa printer to close the gap between Ender3 $199 and MK3 $749.
It would be great if PR would offer a smaller, fully enclosed printer for let's say $499! I would be able to recommend this printer to everybody who would like to start with this hobby.

Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram...
Posted : 16/02/2019 12:40 am
corey.m7
(@corey-m7)
Eminent Member


Everybody want to have bigger and better stuff.
Let's go the other way around. I would like to see a lower level entry Prusa printer to close the gap between Ender3 $199 and MK3 $749.
It would be great if PR would offer a smaller, fully enclosed printer for let's say $499! I would be able to recommend this printer to everybody who would like to start with this hobby.

That's a pretty good idea. Heck, subtract the enclosure (most people, particularly entry level folk, mostly print PLA for which there's no need for an enclosure. So call it an entry level mini-ish i3 for ~$500 🙂 Most of us wouldn't want it, but I could definitely see schools and beginners getting into it. But that's not really why we're here is it 😉

Posted : 16/02/2019 8:35 am
Bioluminous
(@bioluminous)
Trusted Member

I don't know if I would be considered a more or less experienced printer. The Mk3 is my second printer, and this one has around 1500 hours logged. But I have some ideas...

1. Clicking power supply. Maybe my home's AC is goofy, but when I'm printing, all the LED lights in the house flicker slightly. I have the printer on a dedicated circuit with a power conditioner even, but it still does the flicker. The light clicking sound on the power supply is slightly irritating, but not nearly as much as the flickering.

2. Print cooling fan. I wish it were quieter. Especially with the PET settings. It whines when printing PET. Apart from the print fan the printer is very quiet.

3. The bearings are okay. I wish the axis bearings were a little nicer. Are there nicer bearings available? I don't know. Sometimes they make clicking noises especially when I'm printing ABS. I have removed and lubed them a few times and that helps.

4. I wish the Einsy box was mountable somewhere else. I built an enclosure and placed the power supply outside, but haven't done the same with the Einsy box because I would need a lot more wire extensions. You should sell a wire extension kit for everything to be mounted detached from the printer. That would be awesome.

5. I wish WiFi was built in. I haven't installed the RPZW board yet. I am waiting for the Mk3S parts to arrive to do a complete rebuild. But I hate having to swap SD cards all the time.

6. Stop selling the PEI sheets. I went through such a hassle replacing them on my original gold-colored sheet. And when I just got the replacement $30 sheet from you I got the black model that was so much better. I saved ten bucks or so but it totally wasn't worth it.

7. I would order more from you but intl shipping to US is so expensive. I wish you had more Amazon stock (everytime I check your Prusament is sold out).

8. Sell the hexagonal nuts separate from the entire Z-axis motors.

9. I used to hate that all the plastic parts were printed and there were so many zip ties used. But after a year of designing things myself, I totally get it now. Zip ties work really well, often better than any other fastener and are very low profile. And printed parts mean you can send out updates like you have several times and all I have to do is print them out. That's freaking awesome.

10. I think the screen and menu system is fine. Sometimes it seems like I have to dig down to get where I want on the menu but I couldn't personally design something any easier. On my cameras I am able to customize a screen that has my favorite menu items. Is this possible maybe through Slic3r? That would be cool.

11. textured plates...I"M SORRY, I KNOW!

12. Keep being awesome. One day, I would love to visit the factory in Prague. And if any of you are ever in Seattle, I would love to buy you a coffee.

Posted : 18/02/2019 9:36 pm
Protoncek
(@protoncek)
Reputable Member


1. Clicking power supply. Maybe my home's AC is goofy, but when I'm printing, all the LED lights in the house flicker slightly. I have the printer on a dedicated circuit with a power conditioner even, but it still does the flicker. The light clicking sound on the power supply is slightly irritating, but not nearly as much as the flickering.

2. Print cooling fan. I wish it were quieter. Especially with the PET settings. It whines when printing PET. Apart from the print fan the printer is very quiet.

These two things are supposely solved in latest FW (3.5.2). Try it out.

But, to be honest, if your lights flicker you must have very poor power line... Are you living far from power plant (transformer)?

Posted : 19/02/2019 6:57 am
chaoscrack
(@patrick-g19)
Active Member

I'd like to get a dual extruder. I know the upgrade kit MMU. But for me the MMU ist oversized.

Posted : 19/02/2019 12:06 pm
MK3BetaTester
(@mk3betatester)
Estimable Member

32 bit controller the 8 bit one i maxed out

The Latest Firmware can be found here https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/releases
Open Firmware Issues https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues...
Posted : 20/02/2019 8:49 pm
barry.s4
(@barry-s4)
Active Member

Would like to see TFT add on to the i3 mk3 / mk4.
With the options to install Octiprint or Repetier Server on the SD card.

Here is more
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2918314

Posted : 22/02/2019 6:32 pm
nikolai.r
(@nikolai-r)
Noble Member


Would like to see TFT add on to the i3 mk3 / mk4.
With the options to install Octiprint or Repetier Server on the SD card.

Here is more
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2918314

Just go for it. There is no need to wait 🙂

Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram...
Posted : 22/02/2019 6:43 pm
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