Maker's Muse Clearance Castle
 
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Antimix
(@antimix)
Estimable Member
Maker's Muse Clearance Castle

I was challenged to try the Maker's Muse Clearance Castle accuracy test on my PRUSA MK3. This is a mechanical test puzzle.

The printer printed it perfectly. This is a very trick object Design by Maker's Muse that requires a very calibrated 3D printer.

 

This is the video of how it worked my printed object:

I printed also the other two objects of the test.

The Clearance Drawbridge: that has a tough bridge at the limit of the 3D printer and all on one mechanics.

The Clearance Tower:

This is the puzzle solved.

You can find here the Maker's Muse presentation of the test:
The 3D model design is sold by Maker's Muse at a symbolic cost (see links on his video).

Try it on your printer if you want.

Regards

Posted : 27/11/2021 12:47 pm
Mark Roberts
(@mark-roberts)
New Member
RE: Maker's Muse Clearance Castle

Good job!  What did you slice it with?  I'm having a terrible time getting the cooling settings in PrusaSlicer to give me a good print... I can get perfect bridges but it is causing the uprights to be very fragile and the top of the puzzle-turret to delaminate easily.

Posted : 12/01/2022 7:49 pm
Antimix
(@antimix)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Maker's Muse Clearance Castle

Hi, I sliced it with PrusaSlicer 2.3.

I used all default PRUSA values for 0.15mm QUALITY, and then I changed the parameters as suggested by MakerMuse in the video (e.g. perimeters, TOP, ans so on.) and I lower the speed %. The real tricky things was to avoid to use the hairspray on the plate while printing with PLA.

BACKGROUND

I always used to print with bed temp at around 60° for 1st layer, and 50° for the others, and set PLA at around 195°C for 1st and 190° for the others. There were several historical reasons, like better bridges or less attitude to clog the nozzle. However low PLA temp always forced me to use hair spray with some filaments (not with Prusament ! 😊 ) , otherwise the PLA detached from the bed. I know that the original Prusa smooth steel sheet has a good adherence with Prusament and I do not need hair spray, so I used it only with others  brands (e.g. Sunlu, or other unbranded PLA from Amazon).

THE CHALLENGE

When I had to print the Castle, I decided that printing without hair spray was part of the challenge, so I started to experiment new things. Basically I realized that if I raised the PLA temp to 210°C for the first layer, and 203° for the others, and set the bed temp to 70° for the first and 50° for the others, then even the unbranded PLA stick well on the standard Prusa smooth sheet without any spray or glue.

But it was not enough. I set the print speed to 40% for the first 4 layers and then to 55% in order to increase the precision and tolerance of the print.

And then... THE PRINT FAILED ! 😒 At around 50 layers due to the small amount of surface in contact with the bed (no brims allowed 😉 ) and thermal stress, I heard like a "crack" and the tower detached from the bed.

This event highlighted how wrong was my "old school" habit to have different bed temperature for different layers. With a printer as the MK3s that has a good power supply and bed, there is no need to change the bed temperature. Changing bed temperature after 1st layer, adds mechanical stress from thermic deformation between the bed and the subsequent layers due the great difference of temperature, and this will cause a detachment. Probably this matter would require its own topic here in the forum.

So I reprinted just having a fixed 70°C bed temperature during all the print, and I got the perfect Castle with no detachment.

I was surprised for the quality of the bridges, since I would have expected that raising the PLA temp to 203° would have caused very poor bridges, but it was not the case.

Regards

Posted : 12/01/2022 11:35 pm
GizmoGoody
(@gizmogoody)
Active Member
Overhang curling

@antimix Did you have any issues with the overhangs on the gate’s left side feature that goes into the castle? I keep getting curling that ends up knocking the gate off the print bed (first layer is dialed in and the rest of the print is nearly perfect). I can print the standalone gate no problem, but it doesn’t have that feature.

Here’s a video showing the curling and eventual failure. I’ve cut the bottom of the gate to save testing time.

This post was modified 1 week ago 3 times by GizmoGoody
Posted : 21/01/2022 4:48 pm
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