A lot of problems after changing to 0.6mm nozzle
After 3 months of perfect prints, I decided to try 0.6mm nozzle from Prusa, bad decicion.
After that I haven't been able to print more then 4 hours without problems.
Often the extruder starts clicking and it grinds itself through the filament (tried prusament, other brands, all PLA, both new and old, same same). So I tried upgrading with Bondtech Heat-break Kit for Prusa Mini, and it helped for a while.
I have the filament sensor, and I print better without it, since it has a lot of tension. I've tried tuning both the filament sensor tension, and the tension on the extruder, without too much success.
It usually print perfect for an hour or two, then it fails.
At first I though it was the filament getting stuck, but often when it fails, it's only inside the extruder it's stuck, often grinded of a part now blocking the filament from moving.
However somethings it fails without any reason, like the attached picture
EDIT: I use the 0.6mm nozzle profile, printing with, 0.3mm layer height in the picture. Slized through PrusaSlicer
I would increase nozzle temperature a bit and check if there is no blockage of the nozzle and/or PETF tube. Clicking and grinding is when extruder cannot push(or pull) the filament up.
Also I noticed, that there should be a space between nozzle and the heating thing, which on your picture doesn't look like that.
Tried increasing the temperature to 290, and then down and doing a cold pull. Got a lot of white long thin strings (hair tickness, 2-3 cm long). That can't be good.
I will try with another filament and check in on the nozzle spacing. I see the tutorial on changing says " If there is no visible gap outside, it can indicate that the nozzle didn't reach the heatbreak before reaching the outer surface of the heater block and there is a gap inside, which can lead to leaks and clogs."
When you installed the new nozzle and heatbreak, did you hand tighten the new nozzle to the heatblock, then loosen it back half of a turn, then screw the heatbreak into the heatblock hand tight? I installed the Bondtech heatbreak and a 0.6 nozzle x onto my mini, and at first I had some minor adjustments I needed to make, but I havent had any issues since then and I wouldnt go back to 0.4 nozzle. I will gladly try to help you figure out what is wrong with yours.
Nice! I’m trying right now, it’s a little bit tricky since the heat cables are stuck :p but i’ll try screwing it out and in again 🙂
I gather you also brought the nozzle up to 285 before and while performing the nozzle change?
Did you follow the nozzle change procedure? Its important its done correctly.
Only 280, i followed both prusa and bondtech’s guide. I think the problem was that I didn’t screw it too tight, afraid of using too much force when adding the heatbreak to the heat sink.
im currently warming and dismantling it 🙂 wish me good luck
My heater was stuck badly when I disassembled my hotend. I had to heat it up while I delicately held onto the heatblock and finally was able to remove the screws and work everything apart. Tightening everything up for the final time, you definitely need to get the nozzle hot as Clarmrrsn mentioned. Youre supposed to insert some modified Bondtech code into the Prusaslicer gcode settings too. I did a PID autotune to get the values I needed to enter into Prusaslicer gcode.
I didnt have a nozzle torque wrench when I did mine, but I just barely tightened my nozzle and it never leaked or needed adjustment. I was nervous about how much torque to use, but once I got the nozzle torque wrench I realized that you use a very small amount. Im used to working on diesel engines and whatnot where I tighten everything very tight so I just got lucky tightening mine. If you tighten the nozzle all the way hand tight, then loosen the nozzle half of a turn and tighten the heatbreak as tight as you are comfortable with by hand and you should be fine. Then just heat up the nozzle and snug it barely and it should work out. I have to use 5 degrees higher temps compared to the normal profiles in Prusaslicer, but I love the 0.6 nozzle overall.
Apologies, I didnt notice this was a Mini nozzle change.
280 is correct sir....my mistake
Thanks! I just redid the whole thing and I missed:
- Twist the nozzle half a turn back - now my Z-values needed was 0.5mm less (shockingly).
I think I did this correctly when replacing it the first time, but screwed something up when I changed to a super PINDA and 0.6mm nozzle.
I already see it prints much better now.
- Addind the instructions to my GCode, I didn't see that step, at all :O
Again, thanks, will keep this posted after I get to try some more complex prints 🙂
Did you do the add M301 P13.54 I0.98 D46.58 to the start G-code in the slicer before the ; intro line step?
Yes, i added it to all my printer profiles and redid all my gcode.
I tried their values to begin with, but after the auto tune, my values were a bit different so I stuck with my values. I print PLA at 220, and it seems to be happiest 5 degrees higher but that could be because of the hardened nozzle I use.
Ok 🙂 i’ll try some autotune then. I often grind through the filament, so have a bondtech extractor feeder upgrade coming on manday. It may help, we’ll see 🙂
thanks for the help!
Did you try adjusting the extruder tension screw to see if filament stopped grinding?
Yes multiple times. It prints around 20 hours before it suddenlty decides to grind through. I think the filament sensor adds too much tension some times. Tried changing both tension of the sensor and the extruder. A fried had more luck with the bond tech extruder 🙂
I have one filament that no matter what I do it will not work and grinds. It's the Galaxy Black from Prusa, and I have totally given up on it.